FABI + ROSI is fabulous, even if the experience was a little surreal

I work at the Driskill Grill Friday & Saturday nights, so Thursday night has become our date night.  Early evening, October 1st, Anne and I discussed where to eat.

Me: "ASTI has got a new menu tonight."
Anne: "That sounds good."
Me: "There’s always Whole Foods."
Anne:  "I don’t want to eat in a grocery store tonight."
Me: "Mandolas?"
Anne: "I don’t know."
Me: "What about FABI +
ROSI?  I’ve heard great things."
Anne: "Let’s go there."
Me: "We’ll probably run in to Brian Owens chillin’ with some Chassagne-Montrachet."

The Surreal
I’m pretty sure it’s just beer and wine at FABI + ROSI, so I decided to make an absinthe drip as a pre-dinner cocktail for myself while Anne finished getting ready.  The restaurant is just around the corner from where we live.

While waiting for our table, Anne orders a glass of bubbly, and I enjoy a Duvel.  I personally love it when restaurants serve Duvel.  I instantly become endeared to the establishment, reminds me of Europe.  Anne spots Tyrone Soares floating around.  He is likely my favorite service professional in Austin.  I’ve had the pleasure to work with him at two different establishments.  Gratefully, he is our waiter.

As he gives us the rundown of the establishment, who should pop up behind him, but none other than Mr. Owens.  He was seated in a private nook with some of his closest friends, all of whom are wine collectors.  FABI + ROSI allows one to bring in their own wine for a corkage fee.  Needless to say, they’re drinking some incredible wines.  What does Mr. Owens bring over to start us off from his cellar? Two glasses of 1995 Domaine Duc de Magneta (Louis Jadot) Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle– premonition complete!  Anne gives me one of those looks.

I didn’t really have much for lunch, so absinthe, Duvel and this first glass of Chassagne started to kick in.  Before I could catch my stride, Mr. Owens hits us with some 1996 Joseph Drouhin Echèzeaux.  Both of these wines are amazing. We place our order, then more awesome wine: 1988 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru “Les Orveux,” and then a remarkable—I mean stellar—1989 Quilceda Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.  I’ve sold this highly allocated (and incredibly costly) wine before upon new release, but have never had one, not even a young one. To be granted this taste of a 20-year-old Washington State Cab was beyond sublime. Thank you Billy Jack. 

The Sustenance
I’m not really a blow by blow, here’s what we ate in detail kind of guy.  I suggest that you go eat there to find out what I’m talking about.  Here are a few comments that might entice you.
Chicken Pate- the best in town, period, the end
Vegetable Terrine with Goat Cheese- classic
Halibut “Catch of the Day” with herb butter, wilted spinach, lemon confit, and fried risotto cake- perfectly cooked, simple and unbelievably good.
Spatzle and Schnitzel- ONE OF THE BEST THINGS I’VE EATEN ALL YEAR. A long time ago I worked at the Café at Four Seasons.  Whenever our Chef de Cuisine, Bob, would go on vacation and Chef Elmar Prambs would take over, he cooked like this.

Overall, we enjoyed an onslaught of amazing wine, incredible food, and sincere hospitality.

The Stupor
As we’re finishing up, Mr. Owens, on his way out, says “Come back to my house for some 1976 Barolo.”  I look at Anne and say, “It’s like we’re in some F. Scott story.”  We agree. We order dessert and coffee. At this point I really need coffee.

I really wanted to extend the evening with Mr. Owens, but all those glasses of wine, not to mention the absinthe and Duvel, was just too much.  I called him on the way home to let him know we couldn’t make it.  The downward spiral was on its way, Friday was going to be a long day. I still woke up and went for my morning ride. I snapped the picture below just after sunup.

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FABI + ROSI is a labor of love, a personal expression of the owners, with husband cooking and wife taking care of the front.  When you dine there, you get the feeling that you’re dining in their home, with all the hospitality, care and comfort of a home-cooked meal with friends. That’s what a neighborhood restaurant should be.