Much has been said and written about Mr. Gravner’s return-to-antiquity winemaking style. A wine geek’s wine or the vinous equivalent of "The Emperor’s New Clothes?” Here’s my analysis of the “Breg,” a white blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Riesling.

The color is rust to orange of a deep concentration with high viscosity. It’s day bright and clear. The bouquet is orange pith and lemon pith, orange peel, fresh rosemary and thyme, wet tree bark crumbled in one’s hand, a hint of airplane glue, oolong tea, and cinnamon stick (not attributed to a new barrel), plus a hint of peppermint oil.

The palate is high acid, high alcohol, and medium tannins, felt in the gums. The pithy/peely fruit nuances are there with a hint of lemon juice. Chamomile, pecan shell and spring foliage complement the manifestations of the aromatics on the tongue. The peppermint oil and cinnamon are also present at the finish. The mouthfeel reminded me of Barbaresco.

“Do I like the wine?” Yes. “Is it for everyone?” Probably not, but that can be said of all wines. If you come in to Jeffrey’s, have an adventurer’s heart and an emperor’s wallet: $20 per glass for a limited time only.

Anthony Garcia
www.wineisdivine.com
http://twitter.com/wineisdivine

I picked this up on a pre-sale, so it worked out to $63.75 per bottle (retail), pretty unbelievable for grower tête de cuvée. Special Club grower-producer (RM) members utilize the same bottle and label.

The wine is intense and hard to say which of the many nuances come to the forefront. The volume is simply turned way up on flavors of toasted brioche, lavender honey drizzled on triple cream brie, fresh key lime and key lime pie filling, honeycrisp apple, honeysuckle, bee pollen and chalky minerality. One of the longest finishes encountered in young vintage bubbly and a pristine mousse, this ranks up there with any of the best Champagne I've tasted. The wine is estate-bottled from the very best premier cru, Mareuil-sur-Ay, located in the Vallée de la Marne.

This day started with hiking the entire 8 miles of the Barton Creek Greenbelt with Anne and my brother Chris; the weather was perfect; then we went for a feast at Home Slice Pizza with a quick stop at Caffe Medici afterward. Chris was impressed. After work at Cipollina and Jeffrey's, Anne and I shared the Champagne, a perfect end to a rather perfect day, although Anne's left hand is severely sprained (possibly broken). Yikes!

Anthony Garcia
www.wineisdivine.com
http://twitter.com/wineisdivine

Côte du Py always hailed for its “il Morgonne,” Pinot Noir-like essence, but here, this remarkable wine took me further south to Grenache versions of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Solid ruby color with a slight garnet to the robe, the wine has a medium concentration, medium-plus viscosity and a trace of stain to the tears. The nose is cranberry, under-ripe strawberry, red cherry and raspberry, white pepper, marigold, sandalwood, black licorice, banana peel, and stone.

The palate displays tart acidity, a bit of moderate-plus green tannin, focusing the spectrum of red fruit and adding a bit of orange peel pith, a medium body with a finish that carries powdered granite and white pepper. This is a wine that teeters on what is fresh and what is almost green, while remaining balanced and pure. Delicious now, but in two to three years or so, it will probably taste like Côte-de-Beaune- under $22.00 retail. Drink it with turkey, Turkey!

Anthony Garcia
www.wineisdivine.com
http://twitter.com/wineisdivine

We’ve had Andy Arrington for about a month now at Jeffrey’s Restaurant, coming to us from College Station. Anne and I were finally able to sit across the bar from him. The man’s drinks are impeccable. His insight and encyclopedic knowledge of cocktail history is much appreciated. When the drink is excellent and the repartee informative, the cocktail becomes a glass of anthropology and nostalgia, and I was feeling very nostalgic after a few, that’s for sure. One thing I greatly value in service industry folk is psychotic devotion to their craft. Andy has it, and isn’t that what you should expect from an aggie!

Deegan’s food, as always, is amazing. This dish floored me: Braised Veal Tail Pierogies with Grain Mustard Crème, Black Trumpet Mushrooms and Parmesan Broth.

Drink one: Martinez- Old Tom Gin, Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth, Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur, Bitters, Lemon Twist

Drink three: Unnamed cocktail as of yet- The Scarlet Ibis Rum, Zirbenz Stone Pine Liqueur, Averna Amaro, Grapefruit Bitters, Lemon Twist.

I had two more cocktails after Lindsey Johnson arrived, too. This was our first time to meet her. What a remarkable person and “Hello Genuineness!” We all kind of melted.

Andy’s schedule at Jeffrey’s is Sunday, Monday, Tuesday. Kelly O’Hare’s is Wednesday through Saturday. If you’re on twitter follow Andy at http://twitter.com/LoneStarBarman

Anthony Garcia
www.wineisdivine.com
http://twitter.com/wineisdivine

Anne has been killing it with these bags. The Austin Wine Merchant has been blowing through them at $6 a pop. She finds the coolest fabrics. These new renditions are my favorites.

She's also cranking out these magazine totes. The one on top is for my Mom. It's her birthday on Monday. Slow ramp up at Jeffrey's tonight. Just now getting busy. Gotta go.
Anthony Garcia
www.wineisdivine.com

An honest little Rosso, it’s not going to change your life, but with a little pasta, you’ll be fixed up nicely. The wine is day bright with a garnet to ruby color and a medium concentration. The rim variation is showing a little age (clear-garnet-light brick), which makes sense with an entry level Sangiovese Grosso at 3-5 years of age. You’ll notice high viscosity with no staining of the tears.

The wine, when it’s first opened, smells better than it tastes: med+ power with a hint of age in the form of a mushroom characteristic, plus black cherries, black plums, ripe strawberry, hint of apricot, leathery like a saddle, lardo, violet, a little dusty stone minerality. If there was new wood in the elevage, I’d be totally surprised; I don’t smell any.

The wine is dry to bone dry, medium-plus body and that slight hint of age is there. The fruits scents are accompanied by a tart red cherry quality. The stony essence is prevalent, but not so much lardo as leather with a little added pencil shaving; a silky mouthfeel meets high acid and medium-plus tannin. At first opening, the wine is disjointed. The wine was so closed, I drank two glasses with some pasta, and then sprayed the half-full bottle with Private Preserve, getting back to it THREE nights later. WOW, much more harmonious, the acid better integrated. If you don’t have three days, throw it in a wide-base decanter for at least three hours prior to drinking. [$21.00 retail]

Anthony Garcia
http://www.wineisdivine.com
http://twitter.com/wineisdivine

Last Sunday, the 14th, Anne and I attended the Austin Wine Salon held at FINO on the patio. The theme was Austrian whites and Spanish reds. We participated in three flights. The first flight was a tasting of Austrian Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, followed by classic Rioja [Torre Muga vs. Lopez de Heredia], then a selection of Ribera del Duero.

I loved this setting, it was a cloudy, cool afternoon and the warmth from the overhead heaters was sublime. Thank you, Emmett and Lisa Fox for hosting this event. Of course, I love Spanish wines, but what stole the show for me was the Austrian lineup, in particular, the 2000 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibner Berg [some producers such as Emmerich Knoll display this vineyard as Loibenberg; it’s the same vineyard].

Analysis
Not as golden or deep in color as I would expect, still very clear-straw-green. The nose was green apple skin, lemon, tart yellow apple flesh, then horseradish meets cardamom, white pepper and gravel dust. The palate was ridiculous: all the mentioned aromatics displayed, while adding honeysuckle and pollen. This thickly textured, powerful yet elegant wine displayed almost high acidity, which accentuated what felt like a blanket of powdered gravel, white pepper and cardamom. The finish was crazy long.

You may know that the 2000 vintage in the Wachau had botrytis issues. True, but I can assure you there was no noble rot in this wine. The wine (above) is the one on the far right in the bottle and the far left in the glass. Also tasted were:

• 2008 Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner Hefeabzug, Wachau
• 1997 Prager Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Weissenkirchener ???, Wachau; unfortunately, I didn’t get name of the ried (vineyard), but this wasn’t showing very well, it went cidery and oxidized. Bummer.
• 1997 Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Alte Reben (meaning “old vines”), Kamptal
• 1999 Nigl Riesling Senftenberger Piri, Kremstal

  To all the collectors who donated this wine: Thank You. Your generosity blows Anne and me away. Unbelievable!

When Dr. Glass speaks people listen.

Anthony Garcia
www.wineisdivine.com

One of the stops when hanging with David yesterday was Hashem's. It was such a treat to be back. I guess you could say, it's the first roaster I knew.

When I was in young I used to make Lebanese Coffee with Cardamom, using an Ibrik. Then at UT, my Pop would send it to me and I would make it for my friends before we went out for the night. I loved those care packages because these would also contain Cashews and Pistachios from Hashem's, too. They're not just deadly with coffee, what they do with nuts is completely soignée.

David is very gengerous. We stopped in here to grab a bunch of stuff: Almonds for Anne, Yemen Coffee for me (sans Cardomom as I kind of lost my taste for it), Cashews and Pistachios for my Mom & Pop. They'll send it directly to Texas, another care package from home. Thanks, David.

Anthony Garcia
www.wineisdivine.com
http://twitter.com/wineisdivine

Another treat when visiting Michigan is hanging with my Dad's close friend David. He took me around the neighborhoods today.

I love his Cuban Coffee. Here's the final sugar/espresso paste he makes.

Then he tops off with a another fresh pot of espresso. He uses a Bialetti maker.

But before making his delicious Cuban Coffee, he took me to Giovanni's on Oakwood for my favorite Calamari on the planet. Nice.

Anthony Garcia
www.wineisdivine.com
http://twitter.com/wineisdivine

My other favorite place to eat is when visiting Michigan is New Yasmeen in Dearborn. The real deal Lebanese bakery.

6 large Spinach Pies, 6 large Meat Pies, 2 Fried Kibbeh, 2 Chicken Shawarma, 2 Meat Shawarma, 1 small Tabbouleh, 2 Cheese flatbreads, 1 Zatar Bread. 1lb Baba Ghanoush, 1lb Hummus, 1 pack of large Pita. A feast for under $50.00.

If I lived up here again, I would eat this food every day. I used to come here when I was a kid with my dad before New Yasmeen expanded. We would eat our Zatars standing on the street.

Anthony Garcia
www.wineisdivine.com
http://twitter.com/wineisdivine