Under the gun & down to the wire, but practice makes perfect

When I arrived at the the Driskill today, I was told that we had 24 folks dining with us in our private room called, the Chisholm room. They were to have an incredible assortment of wine. "You need to set it up now."

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When I saw the wines, I was like, "holy crap, those are some pretty awesome wines." Per their request everything was to be poured ahead of time. I opened 30+ bottles. I evaluated each wine to make sure it was sound. Although 80% of the corks were difficult to extract, thankfully, none of the wines had cork taint, and the reds in particular were stunning. See the photo above.

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It was a scramble to get the room set, but we got it done. Of the wines I tasted, all were excellect, but the 1992 Ridge Montebello was the most suberb.

I enjoy this type of pressure because it's real and the best practice for the Master Sommelier exam. It's not my money & time on the line, it's the guest's; therefore, much more important. The stakes are higher. When I'm thrown into the fire such as this or any other service scenario, I like to remind myself, this is great practice for the exam.

If one day, I achieve my goal, earn my Masters Diploma, and put testing and practicing behind me, I wonder if I will still be relishing in the challenge?


Anthony Garcia
www.wineisdivine.com

1978 Pio Cesare Barolo Riserva Tasted! Austin Wine Salon Update

October's Wine Salon featured many outstanding northern Italian reds.

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The lineup:

Off to a fine start
J. HOFSTÄTTER Pinot Nero “Mezcan” Alto Adige 2006
MASTROBERARDINO “Naturalis Historia” Campania 2000 (Aglianico 85%-Piedirosso 15%)
ELIO ALTARE Langhe 2003 (Barbera)

This palate setting first flight ranged from a light Austrian-influenced Pinot Noir to a monster Barbera (15.5% abv), and just for grins, an Aglianico from southern Italy. Nebbiolo is to northern Italy / What Sangiovese is to central Italy / What Aglianico is to sourthern Italy.  

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Hello Barbaresco! 
PODERI COLLA “Roncaglia” Barbareco 1996
SORI PAITIN Babaresco 1999
ALBINO ROCCA “Vigneto Brich Ronchi” Barabresco 2003

A comparison of Barbaresco. 1996 & 1999 were highly lauded, 2003 not so much. Most European wine regions experienced a heat wave that year.

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The last in a string of 6
MARCHESI DI BAROLO “Cannubi” Barolo 2001 (1.5L)
MASSOLINO “Vigna Rionda” Barolo 2001
MAURO VEGLIO “Castelletto” Barolo 2001

In 2006, Barolo and Barbaresco started a 6 year succession of highly acclaimed vintages. What a treat to taste three very different 2001's.

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Blood and Tears
PIO CESARE Barolo Riserva 1978
SEGHESIO “Vigneto la Villa” Barolo 1998
SEGHESIO “Vigneto la Villa” Barolo 1996

The stand-out here was the 1978, not as floral as I would have  imagined, but its strong suits were earth, tar and kind of a human  blood quality. Thursday, before the Wine Salon, I cut my hand and had to suck on the wound, so it wouldn’t bleed all over a friend's house.  I think I kind of like that taste. Needless to say, a really sexy wine.

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A kiss before dying
TRAVAGLINI Gattinara 1965
LE COLLINE “Vino Monsecco” Conte Ravizza Riserva Speciale (pre) Gattinara 1968

I haven't really tried much from the 1960's. I was very excited to see these selections from Dr. Gary Glass' cellar. The 1965 was no longer alive, but still worth a taste. The 1968 on the other hand was beautiful. This wasn't going to rival other aged wines I've tried in my life, but "Yikes!" It was really good. Dr. Glass said it probably was better around eight years ago, but still had interest left in it.

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V is for Veneto
SPERI “Mont Sant’Urbano” Amarone della Valpolicella 2004
BUSSOLA “BG” Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2003 (500ml)

Two grand producers from the Veneto. I really enjoyed these, but the Recioto in particular was heavenly. I'm a sucker for the sweet stuff.

I've probably said this many times, I am honored to be in the room with all of these amazing people and am blown away by the generosity and camaraderie. Thank you Mr. Owens for inviting me to participate in the Wine Salon.

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Anthony Garcia
www.wineisdivine.com

Unwinding with Kübler Absinthe

This stuff is ridiculous. A well deserved nightcap. Tonight at the Driskill Grill, we served beautiful food, and Sean and I opened a fine collection of wine for guests: 2005 Vieux Telegraphe, 1993 Robert Ampeau Volnay-Santenots, 2001 Pier Rio Sordo Barbaresco Riserva, 2005 Lucien Boillot Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers

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It is nice to recline at home now with an exquisite Absinthe, the Green Fairy's milky white cousin from Switzerland. We've discussed bringing Absinthe back to the Driskill, maybe serving it tableside with the brouille?

Anthony Garcia
www.wineisdivine.com

FABI + ROSI is fabulous, even if the experience was a little surreal

I work at the Driskill Grill Friday & Saturday nights, so Thursday night has become our date night.  Early evening, October 1st, Anne and I discussed where to eat.

Me: "ASTI has got a new menu tonight."
Anne: "That sounds good."
Me: "There’s always Whole Foods."
Anne:  "I don’t want to eat in a grocery store tonight."
Me: "Mandolas?"
Anne: "I don’t know."
Me: "What about FABI +
ROSI?  I’ve heard great things."
Anne: "Let’s go there."
Me: "We’ll probably run in to Brian Owens chillin’ with some Chassagne-Montrachet."

The Surreal
I’m pretty sure it’s just beer and wine at FABI + ROSI, so I decided to make an absinthe drip as a pre-dinner cocktail for myself while Anne finished getting ready.  The restaurant is just around the corner from where we live.

While waiting for our table, Anne orders a glass of bubbly, and I enjoy a Duvel.  I personally love it when restaurants serve Duvel.  I instantly become endeared to the establishment, reminds me of Europe.  Anne spots Tyrone Soares floating around.  He is likely my favorite service professional in Austin.  I’ve had the pleasure to work with him at two different establishments.  Gratefully, he is our waiter.

As he gives us the rundown of the establishment, who should pop up behind him, but none other than Mr. Owens.  He was seated in a private nook with some of his closest friends, all of whom are wine collectors.  FABI + ROSI allows one to bring in their own wine for a corkage fee.  Needless to say, they’re drinking some incredible wines.  What does Mr. Owens bring over to start us off from his cellar? Two glasses of 1995 Domaine Duc de Magneta (Louis Jadot) Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle– premonition complete!  Anne gives me one of those looks.

I didn’t really have much for lunch, so absinthe, Duvel and this first glass of Chassagne started to kick in.  Before I could catch my stride, Mr. Owens hits us with some 1996 Joseph Drouhin Echèzeaux.  Both of these wines are amazing. We place our order, then more awesome wine: 1988 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru “Les Orveux,” and then a remarkable—I mean stellar—1989 Quilceda Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.  I’ve sold this highly allocated (and incredibly costly) wine before upon new release, but have never had one, not even a young one. To be granted this taste of a 20-year-old Washington State Cab was beyond sublime. Thank you Billy Jack. 

The Sustenance
I’m not really a blow by blow, here’s what we ate in detail kind of guy.  I suggest that you go eat there to find out what I’m talking about.  Here are a few comments that might entice you.
Chicken Pate- the best in town, period, the end
Vegetable Terrine with Goat Cheese- classic
Halibut “Catch of the Day” with herb butter, wilted spinach, lemon confit, and fried risotto cake- perfectly cooked, simple and unbelievably good.
Spatzle and Schnitzel- ONE OF THE BEST THINGS I’VE EATEN ALL YEAR. A long time ago I worked at the Café at Four Seasons.  Whenever our Chef de Cuisine, Bob, would go on vacation and Chef Elmar Prambs would take over, he cooked like this.

Overall, we enjoyed an onslaught of amazing wine, incredible food, and sincere hospitality.

The Stupor
As we’re finishing up, Mr. Owens, on his way out, says “Come back to my house for some 1976 Barolo.”  I look at Anne and say, “It’s like we’re in some F. Scott story.”  We agree. We order dessert and coffee. At this point I really need coffee.

I really wanted to extend the evening with Mr. Owens, but all those glasses of wine, not to mention the absinthe and Duvel, was just too much.  I called him on the way home to let him know we couldn’t make it.  The downward spiral was on its way, Friday was going to be a long day. I still woke up and went for my morning ride. I snapped the picture below just after sunup.

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FABI + ROSI is a labor of love, a personal expression of the owners, with husband cooking and wife taking care of the front.  When you dine there, you get the feeling that you’re dining in their home, with all the hospitality, care and comfort of a home-cooked meal with friends. That’s what a neighborhood restaurant should be.