Much has been said and written about Mr. Gravner’s return-to-antiquity winemaking style. A wine geek’s wine or the vinous equivalent of "The Emperor’s New Clothes?” Here’s my analysis of the “Breg,” a white blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Riesling.

The color is rust to orange of a deep concentration with high viscosity. It’s day bright and clear. The bouquet is orange pith and lemon pith, orange peel, fresh rosemary and thyme, wet tree bark crumbled in one’s hand, a hint of airplane glue, oolong tea, and cinnamon stick (not attributed to a new barrel), plus a hint of peppermint oil.

The palate is high acid, high alcohol, and medium tannins, felt in the gums. The pithy/peely fruit nuances are there with a hint of lemon juice. Chamomile, pecan shell and spring foliage complement the manifestations of the aromatics on the tongue. The peppermint oil and cinnamon are also present at the finish. The mouthfeel reminded me of Barbaresco.

“Do I like the wine?” Yes. “Is it for everyone?” Probably not, but that can be said of all wines. If you come in to Jeffrey’s, have an adventurer’s heart and an emperor’s wallet: $20 per glass for a limited time only.

Anthony Garcia
www.wineisdivine.com
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